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boxer-schierig
Reactie van bezoeker 'Bas', geïmporteerd van het oude forum:

Gefeliciteerd, veel plezier met je BMW.

Knipperlichten is misschien gewoon wat corrosie in het schakelaartje, even schoonmaken zou dan al helpen.
De remmen kan je gewoon openschroeven en schoonmaken, misschien heb je helemaal geen revisiesetje nodig en is het alleen een kwestie van vuil en eventueel wat roest. Remschijven schoonmaken en blokjes een beetje opschuren kan ook al een stuk helpen maar BMW's uit die tijd staan niet bekend om hun goede remmen: they'll slow you down, but they won't stop you, las ik er ooit over. Met afremmen op de motor kom je al een heel eind, en slechte remmen zijn erg goed voor je benzineverbruik: elk nadeel heeft zijn voordeel. Maar RVS remleidingen kunnen natuurlijk nooit kwaad, sowieso omdat de huidige leidingen er vermoedelijk al dertig jaar opzitten, hoewel die rubberen leidingen officieel elke vijf of tien jaar vervangen moeten worden. Maar wonderen hoef je er denk ik niet van te verwachten.

Wat ook geen kwaad zal kunnen (misschien is het in de honderd posts hierboven al gemeld): de spievertanding op achterwiel en ingaande as invetten met staburag of gewoon molybdeenvet. Als de banden zo oud zijn zal dat al een tijdje niet gedaan zijn. Achterwiel-spies zijn makkelijk genoeg, even het wiel er af; ingaande as is lastiger omdat het meer werk is, maar een goede how-to staat hier: http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/spline/ Zorg er voor dat motor in de versnelling staat voor je alles loshaalt zodat je de as d.m.v. het achterwiel rond kan draaien.

En verder natuurlijk olie wisselen en kleppen stellen: 0,10 en 0,20 voor inlaat- respectievelijk uitlaatklep, hoewel sommigen wat minder aanhouden (0,15 voor uitlaat - zelf prefereer ik iets ruimer voor beide kleppen).
Wat betreft de olie: er wordt 80W90 aangeraden voor de versnellingsbak maar er zijn een hoop mensen die 75W140 gebruiken. Ook zijn er genoeg die meer olie in de bak doen dan de de lectuur aangegeven hoeveelheiden, 900 i.p.v. 800cc o.i.d.. Er zijn zelfs speciale verloopstukjes die je op de vulopening kan schroeven, een buisje van een paar centimeter dat omhoog steekt zodat je olieniveau hoger kan worden zonder dat het eruit lekt als je de vulopenng openschroeft. Hetzelfde effect kan je voor 72 euro (!) minder bereiken door je motor scheef te houden tijdens het vullen, zoals iemand op dit forum eens zei. Hou trouwens ook het olieniveau van je cardantunnel in de gaten, die wil nog wel eens weglekken naar bak of klok. Elke paar weken bij de ene wat aftappen en bij de ander weer teruggooien is de goedkoopste manier om met dat probleem om te gaan, alle keerringen vervangen een omslachtiger methode.
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boxer-schierig - by ariej - 11-19-2011, 06:55 PM
boxer-schierig - by Guest - 11-19-2011, 08:32 PM
boxer-schierig - by Guest - 11-19-2011, 09:50 PM
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